If you’ve been out & about in the food scene at all in the past few years, there’s no doubt you’ve noticed a certain appetizer or ~small plate~ popping up on menus around town. Yes indeed, we’re talking Halloumi, the sear-able Cypriot cheese that is finally catching on in mainstream America. For those who have yet to dabble, let us introduce you. Halloumi’s texture is similar to a low moisture mozz with flavors reminiscent of feta in that salty, briny way. While that’s all well & good, the real draw to halloumi is its super high melting point. When exposed to heat, rather than melting through your grill grates, halloumi chars, keeps its shape, and becomes soft on the inside; aka your new BBQ bestie.
A traditional Cypriot meze pairing is seared halloumi with watermelon, and given that we still have perfect, sweet & delicious farm grown watermelon in the market, you can count me all the way in for that one. If fruit & cheese isn’t quite your jam, marinating halloumi slices in olive oil, lemon juice, and herbs before grilling is another great savory option. Sometimes I’ll give the cheese a quick sear and whip up a quick vinaigrette. I’ll add some citrus wedges, mint leaves, and a handful of chopped pistachios and call it (more than) good. Great for parties, this halloumi set is still great at room temp.
Wine-wise, we’re sticking to the Mediterranean, maybe 1,700 miles west of Cyprus but Mediterranean nonetheless. Miranius is a skin contact Xarel-lo from Cellar Credo in Catalonia, and no it’s not sparkling. This lithe little guy is a delightful snapshot of the region & the grape it’s known for (Xarel-lo is the known as the Cava grape) – as winemaker Ton Mata likes to say, this bottle is representative of “a conversation between man, earth, and grapes.” Cellar Credo is the first biodynamic certified vineyard in Penedès, and as you may be able to tell, a connection to the land itself is key for Mata. He puts an emphasis on using methods “used by our grandparents yesterday,” in making his singular wines of today. In addition, he likes to keep production volume low, guaranteeing more time for hands-on quality control.
It’s all about balance here: racy Xarel-lo rounded out with some lees aging. Mineral aromas on the nose lead to notes of lime, honeysuckle, apricot, and golden delicious apples. Breezy, complex, and agile, this is the perfect complement to briny, seared halloumi and late summer meze. Grill up some shrimp, maybe add a little roasted eggplant dip or some homemade hummus and you’ll be on a mental ‘Medi’ getaway in no time.
Pairing by Erin Hepinstall, Cheese Manager
edited by Leah Mojer, Wine Manager, M & P